Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Grow Your Own Chillies - Everything You Need to Know - Part 2 of 3

Growth of your plants

OK, you chose your best beans and you are ready to begin planting. What's next?

What to grow?

I was the face that I do not know anything about hydroponics, growing or know who Chili Peppers with this technique. The result will not be covered here.
Well, we have that on the way, there are two main points in this problem and are the means for seed el 'Container for the medium.
Given the means, I definitely recommend using a premium potting mix or seed raising mix.

This is because these products are specially designed with the following characteristics: large particles to compression of the media, which in turn inhibits to prevent both root penetration and drainage and a nutrient profile that promotes vigorous root growth and Development of the foliage.

Are always people who tell you that to get the plan mustOpener that grow at the end. This is absolute nonsense, and if true, would mean that no one would buy as a nursery pot to take home. The fact is that the nursery industry turns around in Australia for several billion dollars a year. Your garden soil is suitable for chili, which is on track to adulthood, but usually from a density that contains or diseases, root growth, damage or even kill can inhibit your newSeedlings.

Now, unlike container, there is a huge range and what is best for you is a little 'how many plants you intend to grow, and very dependent on personal choice. range of containers from Jiffy individual pots or blocks of plastic six cells in large clay jars or plastic. We will examine each of these in more detail.

Jiffy pots and blocks are decompressed from compressed peat moss and wood pulp and swell and when they are incorporated intoWater. The seeds can then be inflated in this mass press, and if kept moist, will grow in a medium perfectly acceptable.

A big advantage is that when the plants are resistant enough to be planted outside, simply plant the pot in garden soil. No need to start removing the map from one medium to another so that the burden of the seedling. The disadvantage is that approximately AUD $ 0.20 per person if you go to plant many seeds, the coststart to add up, and, of course, are not reusable.

Now the plastic six-pack of cells is another option. Simply fill with your seed mix or potting soil, moisten, and place the seeds in each with a stick Dibble. Alternatively, fill them three quarters and then a seed on top of each and then put together again to fill the cells. Either way is fine. The advantages are that they are kept cheap and reusable, which helps control costs are reduced.
The downsidebut because they are small, it is likely that you need to transplant the seedlings in a larger container before they are ready to leave. The reason they need to be quickly transferred to plants in root-bound in small cells, and if they do, this affects the performance and then heath plant. It also stresses the plants twice from the cell to the pot in the garden. If you are able to move from cell to garden plants (as you might in the tropics) or when the facilityremain in the pot that is transmitted, then these negative factors are not a problem for you. Congratulations.
Now I expect soon in pots.

I'm not going to cost to explore here, as it depends of course on personal choice and there is a huge bandwidth. If you intend to plant in pots of cheap plastic, and then transfer into the garden at the appropriate time, a process perfectly acceptable. The only downside is that if you live in the coldest part ofCountry, not as able to explain many dishes on a mat of heat below. However, if you are capable of this, keep the pots warm in other ways (eg, heated greenhouse, or keep them at home), then there is a problem for you.

If the seeds directly into the pot that is absolutely ok - the negative aspects are to grow only those discussed in the previous two sentences. On the upside, not the embryo does not find that the stress ofTransplantation.

Finally, for your information, I quickly the basics of what he was doing the commercial nurseries. Using a more complex procedure, in which large seeds in shallow bowls with no other means of water, some sprouted. A few days later, plants of the race pack of six cells known to be transplanted. This maximized the use and marketability of the six packages, since there are no empty cells sprouted as a result of seeds. Everyoneseen a six pack in the nursery, where one of the dead plants and it has to sell is not easy. So even for the nursery to avoid non-germination, the effort is worth it.

Where can I grow?

You did your seeds, mix and raise the pot. So now we have to discuss where your plants grow and then acclimated.
Briefly cover what I do and then for a number of ways to be able to choose the approach that bestYou.

If I grow the seeds from what is not often these days, I begin with a simple mini-greenhouse (see photo), with a premium quality potting mix their seeds germinate, ensure that they kept moist. This is out during the day, where to get enough sunlight and is available in night-time temperatures to influence the levels should be avoided.
When plants start to the top of the transparent plastic cover (about 5 cm high touch)

I transfer them to larger potsand the position of the Free against a galvanized iron shot to the north. In this position, is a lot of spring sunshine and heat, which is also back on the plants through the warehouse. Perth is very rarely experience a cold night or two during this period, in this case, or I move the plants at night or in a protected area where the temperature does not fall when.

As I am pleased that the plants are acclimatized and ready to go to theirI then transfer to the garden, took in the beds at the back of my yard. The time frame for this varies and is as much about the future likelihood of frost damaging because it is the availability of the plant. This is usually around 3-6 weeks.

I must say that I avoid planting too early (Oct. 1), which explains my need for a greenhouse or cold frame below, denied. I can do this because Perth has a long, hot autumn that I still have halfextended to harvest season lasts until April and May, also frequent.

If you live north of 35 S has a good chance that you can grow your chili all year, especially near the coast. If you live more than 200 km from the coast, you have to be careful of low temperatures in winter / dry season.

If you are between latitude 30 S and 35 S Latitude (live in Perth, Durban, and Santiago), take on my technique, or start a bit 'beforeand links with the following advice, which is for the colder regions.

If you live south of 30 S then you must read the following information and should check the seed in July and August to ensure that you do long enough, the effort is worth seeing crop germination.

OK. The first thing to keep in mind that you probably need some form of heating, temperatures should provide your seeds germinate. There are several ways that I have here. Discuss
first option is an electric heating mat that is both predetermined and models of temperature regulation. You'll pay AUD $ 50-60 for the first and about three times higher than for models adjustable. In Australia you can in good nurseries and garden centers to get. The Bunnings store (in North America would be the equivalent of Walmart) I can not get to them, but you can also buy online retailers as http://www.gardenexpress.com.au (Please note that we do notAssociation with gardenexpress.com.au and if you are looking for there are other sites with the same device).
Friends, we recommend that these mats thoroughly. You asked me to remember that if the seeds have germinated once the pad should be placed somewhere that the plants receive sunlight.

Another option is one that is very popular among amateurs and this is the cold frame. This is an infinite number of variations on the previous example and all are based on the principle of solar heating of the medium in which your germinating seeds. Depending on how the climate is cold, then you can open and close the day at night to keep warm from the heat, or just leave closed most of the time available to the maximum.

If the weather is very cold, there are other steps that can be cold frame to heat the contents of your. One is to dig beneath the base of> Frame and then pack with manure and wet straw and cover with a layer of clay and then place your soil mix / mix increased / cells / top of the jar. Extra heat is then available from the decomposition of manure below and you can be surprised at how it generates heat. I recommend you keep a thermometer in the frame to ensure that the temperature is not too much of 35oC. The cooling can be achieved by opening up the wings, of course.

In extremecold climates, we recommend an electric heater in a cold frame cold frame configuration with heating cables embedded in the base des I suggest you have a qualified electrician for the body such as the consequences of failure to DIY this job can be fatal (and I hate to lose a participant!). As soon as a cold frame, it is often called Hotbox that way last year.

The third and last option I quickly cover is for those lucky enough greenhouse 'effect. It is notA lot more on this, which was not covered in the previous three paragraphs. They are solar heated electrically, and this may be extended or break with some compost, and under the floor or just in a tub in a corner. There are some things to do, certainly in relation to a greenhouse and they are, that the greenhouse gas is able to get enough sunlight through the winter months and is not too hot in warmerMonths. Many greenhouses are dishes that are openly addressed the issue for everyone.

It allows them to grow

That's it. Everything is ready to plant your seeds. The best time is about two months before you can share your pepper plants to reject themselves, that is after they have acclimated to believe.

Enter your six-pack cells or pots of seeds to increase the preferred method, remembering not aimed at the media pack like thisinhibit the growth of root. If you are a premium potting mix to support this will be good enough nutrients for initial growth of seedlings. If you are in any other medium, there is a high probability that it is not to support the nutritional profile your plants.

Then you need a liquid fertilizer, diluted your choice of plants, such as instructions to instruct on the package. For those of you in Australia I Powerfeed (TM) for use by the groupdo Seasol (TM) (I have no connection with them forever, but if they want a deal I am open to cutting).

I use a hand operated spray bottle to apply fertilizers, however, some people prefer to immerse in the liquid-filled container for a few minutes. It 's really up to you.
In both cases the means compact germination can here a little, because the liquid and there are no problems, but if you need to recharge the vehicle in some containers to do so.

Now, with the obtuseEnd of a pencil or something similar in size, press a hole in the middle in each cell, approximately ½ inch deep. Drop 2 or 3 seeds in each hole and then push a bit 'to cover the medium germinate on them. Depending on how many varieties you might want to plant cells or pots in a way, so there is no need to try and remember the label. If keeping a diary or almanac garden then you will no doubt also a series of data onPlanting. It 's a good habit, as the information gathered over time should be for the cultivation of pepper in your area of importance.

Now make sure the seeds moist and keep warm. Moist not muddy, wet means. Finally, we see the seeds begin to germinate. Let them grow for a week, keep moist and warm and then with a pair of scissors, cut down all but the strongest seedling in each cell, cutting the base. You want to do this to ensure thatall generations of your seeds chili is stronger and harder than before.

Make sure the plants grow, where you get enough light, heat and ventilation to ensure healthy growth. Fertilize your plants, follow the instructions on the package / bottle - which is usually once a week.

It 's incredibly important not to let the plants dry. Seedlings stressed by dehydration early in their lives to retrieve only rarely complete - you will end up with plants thathave great vitality and resistance to disease decreases.

Each electric heating, you can use can be triggered after the third week, provided that the plants are not prone to frost.

After about six weeks chilli plants must be of good size and looks healthy and ready for planting.

Acclimatization and transplanting your seedlings

If ever an aquarium that you know when new fish from the store and shoppinghome as soon as the tip of the bag in the tank and go out of it, which will be good. The temperature and pH shock shock could the stress of travel and, most likely as a result of dead fish in 24 hours.

Your plants are the same. Are you the warm, slightly aerated, constantly irrigated Nirvana, which increases within Basically WIMPs are complete and must be before being transplanted in addition to the usual pre-largebad world.

In technical terms, they increased more rapidly and produced large cells with thin walls require a lack of stress and environment, the plant. Get used to it, all day exposure to UV light, strong wind, rain, temperature changes, large and sparse dry conditions.

Many gardeners call this process of polarization or environmental setting.

Acclimatize

This is a process that takes place over two weeks, once theSeedlings reach an age of about six weeks.
The first step is to plant growth by feeding and watering less slow down and, if possible, keep the plants in a rather cool temperature. This adaptation of the stage through the conservation of power plants' to adapt to new conditions begin to open.

Start your plants acclimate in the garden by gradually involving them in the open
Conditions. Put first filtered sun under a tree or asheltered spot protected from wind and direct sun.Leave for 3-4 hours and gradually increase the time spent outside of 1-2 hours a day to bring them back to the shelter during the night.

After a week or so, should resist a sunny day. While acclimate the plants, look carefully at the signs of stress (the leaves begin to yellow and dry out if exposed to too much sun). Now you should be able to stay out at night to provideThe temperature is not too much to drop below -10 ° C (50oF).

The science behind the process of resolving your plants is a physiological, supplementing the work of carbohydrate reserves and produces additional cuticle on the leaves, water loss. Basically, it slows down the process of plant growth during the seedling to acclimate more stringent conditions.

Transplant

Six plants are now ready for transplanting seedlings and when you bought your a nursery, then this is the placeYou start reading this document.

Before entering into the implementation process of your plants in the ground, I would go on a few points higher plants purchased from a nursery. The first is that often root-bound and if so, it will take longer, extending their roots into the soil garden so that they too are subject to dry until they are established. Tease the roots of our small, be careful not to damage, otherwise continue to circulaterather sparse. They also give a little 'extra attention when they are on land

The next point is that most kindergartens to demonstrate that their plants are acclimatized and ready for immediate transplantation. Instead of gambling and disappointed (it was after all your money), harden for at least a week before.

Another point to bear in mind that, as a general rule, planting the same type of system for the same place year after year the demandfor problems. The reason for this is that the parasites, because like their cousins Solanum, tomatoes and eggplants, peppers are susceptible to root knot nematodes. These microscopic roundworms that attack plant roots and cause it to dry.

The two best practices to minimize this risk is to practice crop rotation or by adding significant amounts of organic matter in soil at least once a year.

The distance between plants depends on a number of factors including the size ofcultivated varieties. Smaller species such as ornamental plants, the approach and there is usually less sunburn (light brown burnt areas) of fruit, because they are best planted between the leaves in the shade. Some commercial growers space their plants up to pounds 10-15cm away. Close spacing also helps to minimize evaporation due to the thick canopy.

Well, to plant - generous transplanted water plants the day before. This ensures that the entirePlant will be hydrated, and all the leaves are, when it's time to transplant, so that helps cope with stress.

going to do if your time transplant cloudy or cooler evening hours.
Water the plant immediately before digging or removing from its pot. Enjoy the root ball, so that the soil is dug to the roots, if you stick out of the garden.

Never allow the roots to the sun, heat or wind. This is a risk when you remove all plants from their pots and are easydown, planting one by one. Far better to remove them directly from the pots or cells before planting.

The water before you plug in the hole. Place the transplant into the hole and fill it halfway with water. Allow water to loosen the soil around the roots and then finished filling the hole.
A bit 'firm the soil around the transplant water again, the whole plant, leaves and all. If possible, transplant new shield from direct sunlight for 1-2Weeks, cutting off the bottom of an old plastic jar about the same height as the embryo and place these on them. This helps the plant to overcome the shock by lowering the direct light and reduce evaporation. A more special is that it protects the plant off to strong wind driven.

Check the site daily during the first weeks. Transplants should water every day, if not more. If it is drying, the water plant. Depending on the time andSystem, you need twice as much water per day until established. The larger the plant and / or root growth ratio to lower the water than is necessary.

This may sound extreme, but the shock of being uprooted is stressful to plants at any time of year. In the heat of summer, this additional precaution, the difference between leading and losing the graft.

That's it for this area. The third and final section deals with problems, pests and diseases

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